Venerdì, 19 Ottobre 2018



Rome, March 5 - After five days of intense cold
and steel-grey Parisian skies, the sun was ushered out on to the
city's catwalks with the arrival of Italian designers. First and
foremost to bring back the sparkle was the much-awaited Fausto
Puglisi, class of 1976 from Messina, Sicily, who signed on with
fashion house Emanuel Ungaro and debuted with his fall-winter
2014 collection.
'I do not like to talk about inspiration because it limits
thoughts to a rational area. I am moved by my heart, by
passion,' says the designer before the catwalk.
So for his collection, 'heart', Puglisi said that his
imagination led him to the dressing room of a French woman
living in Los Angeles for about 10 years.
'We are in the 1970s, probably a Brian De Palma film. It is
a tribute to Emanuel Ungaro, born in Aix en Provence,' Puglisi
'I loved his style - his heroic mix of male and female, and
materials such as the floral themes with stripes, polka dots
with the animal prints. I liked the idea of exalting the
passions of Ungaro that were the wrists, pockets and shoulders'.
Freedom, femininity and classic are the three keywords in
the collection.
'You can be feminine without over-exposing flesh and
without losing dignity'.
'Do not use the word bon ton...I find it old-fashioned. I
would say that it is a 'new classic' with the ABC of fabrics
used in haute couture of the '60s, such as wool, crepe, silk and
chiffon,' Puglisi said.
Models on the catwalk sported Egg Coats stamped half with
animal prints, the other half with houndstooth and trimmed with
coyote-fur. Prints also include animals, butterflies and
golden-orchid appliques.
The structured-shoulder men's jacket worn by Ungaro's
favorite muse Anouk Aimee also reappeared.
In all 33 looks were presented worn by those Puglisi calls
the 'new' faces, including Carmen Kass.
The music was a vibrant mix of David Bowie and Mick
Ronson. Directly in the front row sat the excited parents of
Puglisi, Paola and Francesco. 'I want to inject pop - not the
Andy Warhol kind, but the kind of popular that speaks to every
woman,' Puglisi said.
Meanwhile, Giambattista Valli proposed an urban,
international woman, with oversized parkas covering classic-cut
dresses accentuated with leather.
Each look presented a block of color, from candid white to
fire red, with the exception of a floral print on black silk,
topped with a gold smock.
The 'Valli bag', was launched during the collection
preview - a small, square-shaped accessory that hung off several
of the models in croc and leather.
Gucci took advantage of the Paris shows to present their
new luxury handbags made from sustainable, eco-friendly leather,
produced through the Green Carpet Challenge project.

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