Giovedì, 18 Ottobre 2018
PARIS

Valentino unlocks 'cabinet of wonder' in Paris

English
© ANSA

(By Roberta Filippini)
Paris, July 4 - The new couture collection by
Valentino could be described as a cabinet of wonder - the
Wunderkammer of ancient collectors - with precious, strange,
original, unknown things, which for centuries intrigued the
cultured, and satisfied thirst for knowledge of a world
continuously revealed to be ever larger.
Valentino designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo
Piccioli belong to a category of creatives obsessed not only or
as much with fashion image as execution on the highest level -
that of an impossible dream.
And here, in Valentino high fashion, this obsession is
visible and becomes the collection's added-value.
Each garment is a masterpiece, and is itself a Wunderkammer
full of surprises and secrets.
The collection starts from the day - revisited and
redesigned just as haute couture seemed to abandon it in
preference for the shimmering emphasis on evening.
Chiuri and Piccioli, now sure of their stuff, took double
cashmere, printed it with Baroque arabesques, cut it out and
inserted it into the herringbone coat - with an unforgettable
final effect.
Leonardo da Vinci once said, "Simplicity is the ultimate
satisfaction," and the creative pair chose this phrase as
inspiration for the collection: hidden work, so much work, for
simply elegant, astonishing final effect.
So it was for the perforated, laser-cut hood, intricately
worked over with seams - normally only straight on the double -
that here follow arabesque patterns.
A miracle of skill, like the sable furs juxtaposed with
gold-thread-embroidered tulle - breathtaking craft.
What can one say about the little black dress with pure,
velvet and Persian shapes cut like lace?
And the petticoat dress embroidered as a Caucasian rug in
bas-relief?
It's a little hard to describe the complex construction of
an imperial enthronement dress, embroidered with 2,200 natural
pearls and a kilo of gold thread, but with a linear, light
appearance, train included.
It's price?
Who knows, but the pearls and the gold aren't the
intimidation factor, because as they say, "It is rather the
hours of craft that generate the value of a high fashion
garment".

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