Lunedì, 22 Ottobre 2018

Italian designers show the bright side of fall


By Elisa Cecchi
Rome, September 2 - Fashion's fall moods are worlds
apart- from the new ladylike all the way to androgyny with a
redefinition of punk and grunge in between. But there is a
thread keeping uptown feminine or mannish tailoring and new punk
together and it is a very colourful one. Colours are coming
together this season to highlight the multitude of spirits at
play and, far from being subdued by the bleak outlook of falling
temperatures, they shine as bright as their eye-popping
predecessors did this past summer.
Lime and emerald green are no thing of the past. Brighter
than bright shades are debuting in accessories as well as
ready-to-wear - think Italian powerhouse Prada - mixed with
seasonal essentials embracing brown, burgundy, grey and black.
A staple this fall is the bold Mykonos blue, with the
yellow-toned linden green and emerald as reminders of the
landscapes we are preparing to leave behind. Equally exotic
colours slated to brighten the palettes on which fall's
different stories unfold, as sanctioned by global colour
authority Pantone, include the purple 'acai', red 'samba',
orange 'koi' and 'vivacious', an ebullient pink. Even grey gets
hot in a 'turbulence' hue.
And if lime is a highlight at Missoni, where the house's
staple zig-zag knits span the softest grey to embrace yellow,
purple befits Alberta Ferretti's femininity. Eye-popping pink is
a hit at Gucci along with orange and bronze while red is a
showstopper at Dolce and Gabana and obviously a staple of
Valentino, whose all-red version of its iconic Rockstud shoes is
a fashion must-have. Coffee and chocolate brown rule at Prada
and Max Mara while yellow has enchanted fashion houses as
diverse as Versace and Bottega Veneta.
The purest hue, white, goes this fall from the luxurious
understated simplicity of Valentino, to Alberta Ferretti's
ethereal romance and Versace's coolness. Black-and-white
patterns get a ladylike upgrade at Marni and Miu Miu while
different shades of blue, burgundy and grey highlight Ermanno
Scervino's mannish tailoring with an ultra-feminine kick.
Fall's rebel on the other end of the spectrum embraces
different levels of anarchy and edge in blue, red, grey and
black. Leather chains and spikes play a role in toughening up
the vibe with as counterpart plaid, which is making a comeback
in skirts, shirts and dresses and can get grungy or all dressed
up as in Fausto Puglisi's collection.
And a collection which strongly embodies the power of
colours this fall is Stella Jean's as the Italian-Haitian
designer works multi-ethnic elements into a new aesthetic. The
up-and-coming talent of Italian fashion vies for an extreme
cultural mix under a 'Wax and Stripes' theme travelling from
Africa to the Andes, then all the way to Mongolia and back to
Britain. And the juxtaposition of styles is a geographical
voyage without colour boundaries.
Sweeping coats with a silhouette evoking 19th century
Russian styles feature a jacquard print typical of the Andes.
Coats with the designer's trademark take on wax prints are worn
over Oxford shirts. Colours in clashing prints range from blue
to red, orange and grey giving momentum to the bright
inter-ethnic marriage where wax-print, stripes, Peruvian
patterns and pre-Colombian accessories evoke the many different
shades of fall across the hemisphere.

© Riproduzione riservata

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